Winter Riding in Uttarakhand: What's Open and What Isn't
Almost nobody rents a Royal Enfield here in January, which is a shame, because the air is clearer than at any other time of year, the roads are empty, rooms are cheap, and Chopta under snow is one of the best things in this state.
There’s one genuine hazard and one big closure. Here’s both.
What’s Closed
All four dhams. Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath close around Bhai Dooj in late October or November and reopen at Akshaya Tritiya in late April or May. The roads above Joshimath and above Uttarkashi are impassable in between.
That’s the whole closure list. Everything else keeps running.
What’s Open
Chopta — usually. Snow can close the last 30 km without notice, and when it’s open it’s spectacular. The Tungnath trek becomes a snow walk. Ask before you set out.
Auli — the winter destination. Snow from roughly January, skiing, and the range in front of you. The 16 km road up from Joshimath can close; the ropeway runs regardless in most conditions. This is the one big high-altitude ride you can do in winter.
Everything around Rishikesh. Kunjapuri is at its best — the clearest mountain visibility of the year on a January morning. Neelkanth, Devprayag, Shivpuri, all fine.
Tehri Lake and the Mussoorie loop. Cold at Kanatal and Dhanaulti, occasional snow, roads generally clear.
Nainital and Kumaon. Lower, warmer, and the plains transit is far more pleasant in December than in May.
Black Ice — The Real Hazard
This is the one thing that makes winter riding here genuinely different, and it deserves its own section.
Shaded hairpins above about 2,000 m — the ones on the north side of a hill that never see direct sun — hold ice from overnight until mid-morning. On a motorcycle you cannot see it and you cannot recover from it.
The rule: don’t ride above Chamoli, or on the Auli road, before 10 AM in December, January or February. Let the sun get on the road first. Start late, finish early, and accept the shorter riding day.
The same applies to the Kanatal and Dhanaulti stretch in a cold snap.
Cold
Riding at 60 km/h in 5°C air is a different proposition from standing in it. Handle it properly:
- Thermal base layer, insulated mid, windproof outer. Not one thick coat
- Winter gloves. Non-negotiable. Cold hands lose fine control of a clutch and front brake exactly when you need both
- Something covering your neck and face
- Full-face helmet if you have one — meaningfully warmer and less tiring
- Ride 10 AM to 4 PM. Sunset is early and the temperature falls off a cliff with it
Which Bike in Winter
Himalayan 411 or 450 for anything above Rudraprayag or toward Auli. Dual-purpose tyres on cold, possibly damp tarmac give you meaningfully more than road rubber does.
Classic 350 or Hunter 350 for the lower routes — Kunjapuri, Neelkanth, Devprayag, Tehri.
Activa 125 still fine around town. Just cold.
Why Winter Is Underrated Here
Visibility. The clearest mountain views of the year, by a distance. From Kunjapuri on a January morning you see further than at any other time.
Empty roads. No yatra traffic, no pilgrim buses, no queue at Devprayag.
Cheap. Rooms at a third of May’s prices, and same-day bike availability rather than booking four days ahead.
Snow. Chopta and Auli in snow, which most visitors to Uttarakhand never see.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I ride to Kedarnath or Badrinath in winter?
Is Chopta open in winter?
Is Auli worth it in winter?
How cold does it get?
What's black ice and how do I avoid it?
Do I need to book ahead in winter?
· Month-by-month calendar · Auli route